For Your Knowledge

Snorkel Kits We at Daytona ATV believe that the minimum size of the snorkel tubes or hoses should be 2".Alot of the kit's sold out there have 1 1/2" tubes and restricked air flow by half as much as the stock snorkels.Also the amount of bends and sudden transitions (4to2) in the system affects air flow and engine power. We have also seen alot of systems that have traps built into them that hold water and is almost impossible to get out when it does get in. They use the 1 1/2 tubing to get the stacks to the middle of the bike or keep from cutting fenders but are cutting air flow to the engine and belt.. This is why you will see some of our kits with stacks on the fenders because we don't want to compromise the air flow or have to move the electronics and have a bunch of traps and elbows. We try to make our kits as simple as possible to install and still have the best features possible. Use only household 100% silicone on your fittings and belt cover's,do not use automotive type silicone's because it make's the part's extremly hard to get apart when you need to work on it again and is very hard to scape off the part's you use it on. GE waterproof silicone just pull's off and has worked for use for year's.

Clutch Kits Clutch Kits are needed when you put over size tires and more aggressive tires on your bike. The stock clutch setup is designed to work good with the stock size tires. When you put 2 to 5 sizes bigger of a tire on a belt driven atv, you change the final drive gear ratio and hurt the low end torque of the atv and you will have excessive belt slippage. Clutch Kits come in several different configurations,(sport utility, mudder, extreme). There is two clutch's, a primary and a secondary. The primary has weights and a spring that can be changed for better performance and more stall, the secondary clutch has a belt tension spring that can be changed to a stronger one to keep the belt from slipping but can also hurt acceleration and cause more belt heat. Some secondary clutches use a seperate helix behind the clutch that can also change the acceleration and backshifting. When ever you do a engine modification, you will have to do a clutch mod. to get the added power to the back wheels or you waisted your money on the mod. Or if you do some serious engine mods you will need to put some heavier weight's in the primary clutch to keep from hitting the rev limiter. We recommend you start with a sport utility kit and then change the springs and weights from there. You should also buy a clutch kit and not just one of the components. These kit's are put together to work as a hole. It's just like jetting a carburator,if you only change the main jet them you only get more fuel in the top rpm range and run lean in the bottom. Another words when you change the secondary spring only to keep the belt from slipping you just slowed down your acceleration. The true way to adjust the clutch's without buying a kit is to use a Dyno. These kits can be altered in different ways but you need to know what can be altered and the affect of what that will do. The biggest mistake people make is ordering a extreme mudder kit because they put 30" tire's on the bike or UTV and end up with know topend speed. If you only care about going 20mph than these kit's are for you. We have sold more EPI Sport Utility kits (90%/10%)than any other kit's out there. We have also set up bike's with around a 4000 rpm stall but these were strickly mud racing bike's . You would not want to try riding these bike's on tight trail's. Alot of kit's and supplier's will call out a kit for big tire's and ship them to you and they will be more extreme than you wanted. Also when purchasing a belt,stick with the factory or EPI belt's. No I do not work for EPI nore do I get a cut for pushing there produce's, but trust me from experiance, tried them all.

Performance exhaust pipes and complete exhaust systems will give you more power with help from a jetkit or for efi models a programer. ATV's come out of the factory running lean, when you add a performance exhaust you make it run even leaner. Lean or to rich isn't good. Lean can make the engine run hot and burn exhaust valves and damage pistons. To rich causes carbon buildup on top of the piston, foul spark plugs, and plug up exhaust systems causing piston knock and lose of power. We even jet stock bikes to get them to run better.Depending on the altitude were you live will determine how you jet your bike. Low altitude(richer)high altitude(leaner). When you jet a carburator you should use a jetkit like Dynajet. It comes with several main jets, needle and slide spring. Just changing the main jet will not work. It also comes with a base setup for your atv setup and altitude.EFI models are a little easier to modify because the fuel systems ccompensates on its own for changes. Depending on the stock ECM fuel programing on some brands you may not have to use a programer. The best way to be sure is to due a spark plug test.

Belt Drive compaired to automatic (Honda) transmission. The belt drive transmission is far better for modifying, the sealed automatic transmission can not be modified,it is sealed in the engine. Also with a belt drive the belt will start slipping or brake when under extreme load where as the automatic will brake something in the motor and can only be fixed by taking the motor out off the frame and taking it apart. It is allot easier and cheaper to change a belt than to take a motor completly apart. When puting bigger tires on the belt drive bikes you can clutch kit them to regain the low end back, this can not be done on the automatic trans.

Ethanal mixed fuel and the truth about what it does to your atv. Pump gas has 10% ethanal in it. When the goverment allowed this to be put in the gasoline they were thinking it would be used with in a couple of weeks each time you filled up your tank. The problem with ethanal is over time (30 to 40 days) is it starts to seperate from the gasoline and starts to obsorb moisture in the tank and through your vent. This moisture keeps acumulating and settles to the bottom of the tank and gets sucked up by the fuel pump. Your engine will not run of water or straight ethanal. Straight ethanal also eats rubber parts in the tank and carburators. You will find that when you go to try starting your bike after it has not been started for two months that it either won't start or it will run like crap. There is know way to stop this from happening. There is additives that claim to stop this process but don't work. Just starting your bike every week does not help either because the fuel in the tank is still going bad. We recommend that you suck the fuel out of the tank and drain the carburators if you think it is going to sit for a while. Use the fuel in someting else and refill your bike with fresh gas when you are ready to ride.